Knives 101

I firmly believe that you can make any dish as long as you have the three (3) essentials: a Chef’s Knife, a Utility Knife, and a Paring Knife. A quality pair of kitchen shears is a must-have too. Anything else is more of a luxury or for specialized use as home cooks. The three essentials will cover all of your basic knife cutting methods from slicing, dicing, chopping, mincing, and peeling. Bonus recommendation if you have children that enjoy helping in the kitchen: Zwilling J.A. Henckels TWINNY Children’s Knife 3.9”

Most any research you do will have you circling back to either Japanese or German steel. I tend to gravitate toward Japanese steel. Maybe it’s the beauty and the artistry. Maybe it’s the samurai-sword-like craftsmanship. It’s simply what I prefer. However, you cannot go wrong with either. If you are serious about cooking— do yourself a favor and invest in quality knives first and foremost.

Western vs. Eastern

Germany (western) and Japan (eastern) are the two largest manufacturers of knives as indicated by my recommendations below. What are the primary differences though? Japanese knives are mostly made from carbon steel and feature a single-bevel. A single-bevel means that the knife only has one edge and is therefore better for precision cutting due to a thinner blade. Carbon steel is also a hard steel that will maintain its edge well. German knives feature a double-bevel which is great for multi-purpose use and powering your way through more dense foods. German knives are made from stainless steel which is super easy to maintain, but will require more frequent honing as a softer steel. Japanese style knives also traditionally have a straight edge (ie. santoku and nakiri knives) whereas German knives (ie. traditional chef’s knife that most Americans are familiar with) have a curved edge. German knives are going to be weightier and are made for power cutting and rocking motion cuts. Japanese knives are lightweight and made for precision slicing cuts.

You can’t go wrong with either. It ultimately comes down to your personal preference. I will caution those looking at and falling in the love with the beauty of Japanese Damascus-cladding though. Do not purchase inexpensive Japanese Damascus knives. You will waste your money. Damascus-cladding is a process in which multiple layers of steel are cladded together for strength and durability; and to give those knives that distinct, yet gorgeous, patterned finish. Many of the less expensive Japanese Damascus knives you will find on the market are not cladded— they just have a laser-etched “Damascus” finish. Stay away.

Bolsters & Balance

A bolster is a thick junction between the handle and the blade of the knife serving as both a counter-balance and a finger guard. A full-bolster spans the entire width of the blade, opposed to a half-bolster that does not reach the edge of the blade. You will not be able to utilize the full-length of a blade with a fully-bolstered knife. Bolstered knives are also going to be weightier and more durable, but not necessarily sharper. Bolsters are common on German steel and the blades are not typically as thin opposed to Japanese steel. If you are new to cooking or have not mastered your knife techniques yet, I would recommend going with knives that feature a bolster for the finger guard aspect. I gravitate toward knives without a bolster due to more even balance and the ability to use the entirety of the blade. Honing and sharpening blades without a bolster is also easier.

Handles

Comfort is one of the most important aspects to consider when choosing which knives are right for you. What feels the best in your hand? There are many different shapes and types of handles and it also depends on how much effort you want to put into maintaining the handles depending on the material. Do you desire the beauty of wooden handles or a synthetic material that’s easier to maintain? My personal preference are D-shaped wooden handles. The slight curvature of the handles fits naturally in the hand and prevents cramping during elongated use. Wooden handles are gorgeous, but please, do not run them through the dishwasher. Make sure to also treat and maintain your wooden handles with a high-quality mineral oil. Do not use cooking oils to maintain wooden handles. Cooking oil goes rancid and can rot the wood over time.

Rockwell Hardness

58 - 60 degrees is generally the sweet spot for edge retention and durability of your knives. What is Rockwell hardness though? In short, Rockwell hardness is a precise measurement that tells you how hard and how strong one metal is compared to another. Harder steel will stay sharper for longer, but is prone to chipping. Softer steel will dull more quickly, but is much easier to hone and sharpen. I tend to prefer blades that are above average on the Rockwell scale (mine are mostly 63 RwH) so they maintain their edge longer and remain razor sharp.

Cutting Motions

What is your primary cutting motion? Are you a rocker? Front-to-back rocking motion when cutting. Are you a slicer? Slicing motion drawing the blade toward you as you cut. Or, are you a chopper? Pushing motion away from you as you cut. All three motions are completely viable, but it may dictate what type of primary knife you are the most comfortable with.

A rocking santoku or or a chef’s knife are perfect choices for rocking motions. A chef’s knife or santoku (non-rocking) are excellent for a slicing motion. For chopping motions, a nakiri or chef’s knife are your best options. If you want to make this choice easy— just get a western style chef’s knife as your primary blade. Standard sizes are 6” or 8”. A chef’s knife is a true jack-of-all-trades.

Honing & Sharpening

Knife rule #1: Keep your knives sharp. Everyone has heard this a million-and-one times— a dull knife is a dangerous knife. Everyone should at least have a honing steel in their arsenal. If you’re really into it though go ahead and get a whetstone. I’m too lazy for that and will take my knives into a shop to have them professionally sharpened, if necessary.

What is the difference between honing and sharpening? Honing does not remove any metal from the blade of your knife. It realigns the existing edge and extends the time between the need for actual sharpening. To hone your knives; run the edge of your blade down the honing steel at a 15 to 20 degree angle an equal number of times on each side. Sharpening removes actual metal from the blade and is necessary to repair a damaged edge or restore a very dull knife.